The debate between white and red meat as the superior source of protein has been shaken up by the emergence of a new contender: black meat, embodied in the Ayam Cemani chicken breed.

Hailing from Indonesia, this rare bird has found a new home in Kenya. One farmer, Joyce Kihara of Naivasha, whose farm boasts a variety of ornamental birds alongside traditional livestock, has become known for her unique collection, with the Ayam Cemani taking centre stage.

At Charis Farm, visitors are treated to a spectacle of avian diversity, from peacocks to ducks to the Ayam Cemani star attraction.

With its striking black appearance, from feathers to bones to eggs, this chicken breed never fails to captivate guests. “Our guests are always amazed by these birds. They often come expecting to see typical poultry, but we offer something far more unique, and the Ayam Cemani is always a highlight,” shares Kihara.

However, this exclusivity comes at a price. The Ayam Cemani can fetch upwards of Sh50,000 due to its rarity, making it a luxury item for enthusiasts.

Yet, for Kihara, the investment is worth it, as the bird continues to garner interest from locals and beyond.

“I bought the chicken from a mzungu who relocated to United States at Sh50,000,” says Kihara, while explaining that the demand for unique birds is high but the biggest challenge is the import process, which is lengthy and demanding.

At the moment, Kihara is not rearing the black chicken for slaughter.

“I do not have many black chicken to sustain the market. What I have at the moment is for ‘angrituorism’,” she said.

Beyond the Ayam Cemani, Charis Farm is home to a diverse array of feathered wonders, from the diminutive Serama, recognised as the world’s smallest chicken breed, to the majestic Brahma chicken, weighing in at over 5.5kg.

Wide variety

Kihara points that Serama chickens are primarily kept for ornamental purposes.

“They also make excellent pets due to their friendly and sociable nature,” said Kihara.

Due to its small size, Serama, which originates from Malaysia, are not raised for meat or egg production but they do lay small eggs known as Serama chicken eggs. The eggs are bigger than that of quail and they will lay roughly 180 a year.

 “The Polish Bantam is another favourite, with its distinctive head feathers resembling a wig,” added Kihara.

This breed is an ornamental so if you are looking for a breed to lay a lot of eggs this will not be the breed for you.

For Kihara, ornamental bird rearing is just one facet of her farm’s operations, including dairy, fish, and rabbit farming.

This diversification was borne out of necessity, as Kihara transitioned from potato farming due to dwindling yields caused by erratic rainfall patterns exacerbated by climate change. “I was a potato farmer for many years, but declining harvests pushed me to explore other options,” Kihara explains.