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Thousands thronged the coastal city of Mombasa this December vacation, seeking festive cheer despite mounting concerns over the soaring cost of living.

The allure of Mombasa, with its pristine beaches and vibrant tourist culture, made it the top destination for holidaymakers looking to escape daily struggles, albeit on a budget. Calls for affordable bookings surged as families planned their holiday getaways.

As the season reached its climax, the city teemed with visitors, most of whom had travelled from upcountry.

On Christmas day, beaches and other recreational parks in the port city were choking with revellers out to make the best out of the day. Jomo Kenyatta Public Beach locally known as Pirates Beach, the only public beach in Mombasa, was overwhelmed with holidaymakers as the hot weather in the coastal city made it suitable for sea-related tourism.

“We came here to celebrate Christmas. I am here with my brothers Jack, Izo, and Rodgers and we are enjoying the moment. Although the economy is rough on us, we are managing,” said James Odekei from Busia County. Similarly, John Vadi from Kakamega said he was happy to be at Pirates Beach to celebrate Christmas with friends and family, saying the moment served as an effective therapy to unwind.

He said such moments were necessary for any average Kenyan because the political temperatures are too hot and the economy is doing too badly.

“While we cannot afford the luxury of the top-of-the-range hotels, at least we can afford the bus fare and some few coins for snacks here and there. We are having a good time here at the beach for now as we brace ourselves for January,” Vadi said.

Other beaches like Mkomani, Nyali and Shelly equally witnessed huge droves of revellers. For the untrained eye, the multitudes of visitors flocking the tourist city of Mombasa automatically translates to an economic boost as it is expected that there will be cash in circulation. However, as beach operators testify, the reality on the ground is different.

A number of beach operators at multiple beaches were concerned about the spending habits of most visitors flocking the public beaches as it emerged that a majority of them were “cautious with their pockets”. According to Thomas Thoya, a lifeguard at Pirates Beach, this could be one of his worst December festivities since he started operating at the beach.

“I don’t remember a time we have suffered like this year’s December. Visitors are flocking in large numbers but they are not ready to spend as they are complaining of harsh economic times,” he said, adding that whenever you approach a client, they say their priority is school fees next year and therefore are not ready to spend. 

“All the people you are seeing are just here to view the Ocean. Very few are ready to spend because of the economy. For us as beach operators we are not happy with this situation at all,” Thoya said in an interview with journalists.

The lifeguard reminisced about past December holidays when beach businesses thrived, buoyed by international tourists who tipped generously and participated in local activities.

He singled out activities like windsurfing, curio selling, massaging, breezing, sand bathing, camel and horse riding among others as some of the activities that keep tourists busy at the beach.

Well-versed with beach activities he recalled fondly of the eras when he said the beach business was a lucrative trade that anyone could admire.

“Those were the days when international tourists used to flock here like nobody’s business. And when tourists come it would mean plenty of tips which come in the form of money, gifts and sometimes travels,” he reminisced.

But that was then. Today things are different. With international arrivals in the country increasingly becoming unsustainable, the situation has left beach operators to cling to local tourists who according to Thoya, a majority of them have been ravaged by the country’s poor economic situation. “Local tourists are seasonal. They only come during vocational holidays like April, August and December when schools are closed but the rest of the year is usually dry. But these days even when they come they don’t like spending,” he said.

Good old days

“Unfortunately, the few who are big moneyed and ready to spend, prefer to book hotels where they spend privately with their families. They hardly come to public beach,” added Thoya.

Referencing the good old days, he said on a good festive day like Christmas, he would close the day with at least Sh20,000 but by 4.00 pm on Christmas day this year, he had made only Sh500, a situation he said is a pure reflection of a bad economy.

“I am a father of eight and husband to two wives. Tell me how I am going to survive in this kind of a situation.  We are asking President William Ruto to interrogate his economic policies because with my experience with the beach, I don’t think there is any other sector that has a huge potential to turnaround the country’s economy than tourism,” he said. The lifeguard appealed to Ruto’s administration to prioritise revival of the country’s tourism sector, warning that if the status quo persists and spills over to 2025, there is a high likelihood of youth in Mombasa turning to crime for survival.

Evelyn Kadzo, a vendor selling boiled eggs at the beach, echoed similar frustrations. “Visitors don’t have money. I brought one crate of eggs, expecting to sell out, but I’ll likely take most of it back home. The government must address the ailing economy,” lamented Kadzo, a widow struggling to make ends meet.

Many revellers adopted cost-saving strategies to enjoy the holiday season without breaking the bank with some arriving early in Mombasa to avoid the festive rush that typically drives up transport and accommodation costs.

For lodging, many opted for budget-friendly options like Airbnb or guesthouses and sharing costs among friends and family. A group of four visitors from Nairobi exemplified this frugal approach. Travelling on December 19, they booked accommodation at a guesthouse in Mkomani area of Nyali sub-county, securing two rooms at Sh500 each per night. The arrangement cost them Sh1,000 daily for lodging.

For meals, they hired a local cook to prepare affordable, simple dishes like ugali with sukuma wiki, rice or chapati with beans. Their daily food budget was capped at Sh1,040.